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Saturday 2 March 2024

Undavalli Caves Vijaywada

Undavalli caves are situated in north-west of  Vijaywada in Andhra Pradesh. The Caves are about 6 km from the Vijaywada town and are situated in Undavalli village. Hence the name Undavalli Caves. These caves are located on a hill which overlooks Krishna River. 

This is a national monument looked after by Archaeological Survey of India. A popular destination of tourists visiting Vijaywada. It is open 9 am to 6 pm. Entry by ticket. No restaurant. No guide was available during our visit. Prakasam Barrage is nearby and can be added to your visit here. Some photos:

These Caves are of 4th - 5th century creation and have a style of Gupta period. These caves are also associated with Vishnu Kundina kings who ruled the area during 420-460 CE. 

These caves have been dugout in to sandstones and have imposing structure of four floors. A smaller part is on right side with a row of elephants carved out over cave entrance and two cells without doors. These are said to be used by Buddhist monks as residential quarters or guest houses

Ground floor has eight cells and seven openings in facade looking towards east. Almost all of it looks rather crudely executed job. The hill overlooks Krishna river some distance away  

First floor has better carved pillars and greater depth of caves. More attempt seems to have been made the structure useful and attractive 

Two large elephant heads have been carved out indicative of Buddhist architectural style. Depth of the caves vary on different floors 

This part is isolated from main structure with simple cells and some engravings 
  
Reclining Ananta Padmanabha Swamy of 5 m length carved in a single piece of granite. Head is covered with hood of Naga. Walls are adorned with many idols

Another view of reclining  Padmanabha Swamy
  
Different idols beautifully engraved on the hard cave walls 

Sitting near the feet of Padmanabha Swamy

Upper floor is much better chiselled out with many sculptures on the walls. In the far end is Ganesha 

The hood, Yaksha and a Rishi 

  
Long airy cool corridor of the first floor

Flowers on the pillars and in the back, engraved idols of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva 

Many decorations on pillars
  
Part of structure may have disappeared due to the effect of weather 

Meditation cells perhaps 

Rishis on the first floor 

View from top



                                                                    Panoramic view - 1/3
   

                                                                          Panoramic view - 2/3

  

                                                                          Panoramic view - 3/3



Thursday 29 February 2024

Anupu, Nagarjuna Sagar

Anupu is a Buddhist archaeological site located on the banks of Krishna river, about 18 Km from Nagarjuna Sagar. It is 80 hectare site that contains ruins of Buddhist university, an amphitheatre and monasteries which were said to have been established by famous Buddhist philosopher Acharya Nagarjuna. The Nagarjuna Sagar is partially in Palnadu, Andhra and partially in Nalgonda, Telangana. Distance of Nagarjuna Sagar from Vijaywada is about 205 km and from Hyderabad is 156 km. 

2. Acharya Nagarjuna was a great Buddhist philosopher and logician and is also known as the Second Buddha. He wrote many books of which Mulamadhamakakarika is best known for logically upholding the Buddhist principals. Central concept of Nagarjuna is 'emptiness or Sunyata of all things'. He stated that 'all things and phenomena are empty of intrinsic-nature or Svabhava' and that all things are inter-dependent. 

3. In December 1955 Prime Minister Nehru inaugurated the construction of masonary Nagarjuna Sagar Dam which went on for 12 years. For this Muktyala Raja ( Raja Vasireddy Ramgopala Krishna Maheswara Prasad ) donated a sum of 110 million GBP and 55000 acres of land. Prior to starting construction of the dam there was intense debate in Parliament on heritage vs development but the dam lobby won. 

4. The construction of the dam was to submerge an ancient Buddhist settlement at the reservoir site. The site called Vijayapuri, was the capital of Ikshvaku kings in 1st and 2nd centuries. These kings were successors of Satvahanas in the Eastern Deccan. The Buddhist settlement was therefore excavated before building the dam. The ruins, bricks, pillars etc were picked up and painstakingly rearranged in Anupu village. Large number of artefacts found during digging were moved to a museum on the hill island of Nagarjunakonda in the middle of reservoir.  

5. Early morning visit is suggested as it is cool in the morning. Buddhist University and an amphitheatre are spread across a large area and one needs to walk around quite a bit. Afternoon sun is hot. There is no restaurant. Guide was also not available at the time of visit. Ample parking area is available. No entry fee. Site remains open from sunrise till sunset. The place is pretty scenic and beautiful.

6. A small river beach on backwaters of River Krishna is at a distance of about 2 km. No proper road is there. However fishermen use this place with couple of boats and pick-up vans. Otherwise its a lonely but pleasant site. 

Some photographs:

1. Many such short and tall pillars are seen in Anupu
 
2.     Rearranged Buddhist Stupa of red baked bricks 


3. Methodically laid out rooms and broad lanes of university

4. White pillars in brick work

5. This may have been part of a hall 

6. Looks like a class room with a place for teacher on the podium

7. Under the cool shade of Peepal Tree planted by Dalai Lama. Afternoons are hot here

8. Entrance to Amphitheatre 

9. Performance area of the amphitheatre. Area might be 100'  300' with large seating capacity and a slope on the top 

   
10. Lovely carving may be for water management 

11. Meditation Cells

  
12. Stupa platform made up of broad red bricks is quite high 


13. Notice Board
      
14. Location of Anupu 

15. Excerpts from ASI report of 1954 - 55 about excavations that took place prior to building of Nagarjuna Sagar Dam